Home, Family, Pets, Food, Gardening, Hobbies and General Lifestyle topics.
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sprintcyclist
- Posts: 7007
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by sprintcyclist » Sun Jun 28, 2020 4:15 pm
Valkie wrote: ↑Sun Jun 28, 2020 3:30 pm
As a trade of many many years.
I find it quite important to state that one should not play with a power tool unless you have some training in its use and the dangers associated with it.
For example.
A friend of mine (a very good builder) once employed a man who said he knew all about building tools.
He seemed to be OK with the framing nailer, but when this tool broke down he grabbed the concrete nailer to finish the job.
Just in case the nail went through the wood, he put his hand behind the frame.
Guess What? It went through the wood, his hand and into the wall, just missing my friend in the process.
I have seen what happens when a guy tries to brush down the circular saw table, with the saw going.
I have actually untangled a drill from a guys overalls after he somehow got it tangled and nearly drilled into his femoral artery.
I have another friend, a nurse.
The stories she tells me, particularly recently with people at home trying to emulate work they have seen on TV.
Falls off ladders
Electrocution
Burns
Cuts
Lost fingers
Crushed toes
Damaged eyes, the list goes on and on.
If you don't know how to use a tool safely
Don't touch the bloody thing.
Absolutely.
Almost everyone under estimates ladder danger. A specific bugbear of mine.
I bought a new set of goggles to leave in the Router set so there is ALWAYS a set there. Have ear muffs.
I am always mindful of safety, This seems to ensure the job turns out very well.
Right Wing is the Natural Progression.
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sprintcyclist
- Posts: 7007
- Joined: Wed May 07, 2008 11:26 pm
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by sprintcyclist » Sun Jun 28, 2020 4:42 pm
Gordon wrote: ↑Sun Jun 28, 2020 1:25 pm
sprintcyclist wrote: ↑Sat Jun 27, 2020 8:44 pm
I bought a Makita router today after months lusting for one.
Have not powered it up yet, reading through the manual. It is a complex thing to use.
Very nice tool. I like my Makita gear.
Seriously, what kind of a bloke reads the manual first.
Me. I always do.
We work on all sorts of gear at work, I read manuals a lot.
In this manual, aside from 'How to use it', it told me if I run the router on low speeds for extended periods I can overheat the motor.
When cutting a deep groove in wood do it 3 mm at a time. So if I want a 12 mm deep groove, do that in 4 or more passes.
I did some test cuts on it today, it is really a nice tool. Comes with 2 different dust extraction attachments.
It is this one
https://www.totaltools.com.au/115765-ma ... gIKzPD_BwE
And got router bits made by Carbitool . Their cheaper ones, still tungsten carbide tipped and I am careful. Just cutting pine.
Right Wing is the Natural Progression.
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Neferti
- Posts: 18113
- Joined: Wed Jan 12, 2011 3:26 pm
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by Neferti » Sun Jun 28, 2020 7:31 pm
sprintcyclist wrote: ↑Sun Jun 28, 2020 4:10 pm
Neferti~ wrote: ↑Sun Jun 28, 2020 2:05 pm
Thanks guys. I had no idea what a Makita router did, now I do.
Neither did I. I spent some time working out what joinery is, then how to do it .
Then how to use a router to do that. Then what sort of router would suit me.
Joinery is joining 2 pieces of wood without using steel screws, nails or bolts.
Classic style woodwork used before screws were readily available. Or used in top end furniture.
Apparently these joints are amazingly strong.
Thanks Sprint. Here's a link to the various types of wood joints.
https://www.wwgoa.com/article/woodworki ... -you-use/#
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Valkie
- Posts: 2662
- Joined: Sun Jul 29, 2018 4:07 pm
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by Valkie » Mon Jun 29, 2020 5:59 am
The dovetail joint you have there will still require some glue, or a fixed to another structural component.
Dovetail joints as also very pretty, and if done by hand, show off the carpenter's skill.
If you are serious about not using glue or other fixings
A wedged mortice and tennon joint is the answer, although I still use glue.
You can even have a blank wedged mortice and tennon joint.
Where the wedge is inserted into the tennon before insertion into the blank mortice and locks as the joint is assembled.
But with this one, you only get one chance, so it's got to be perfect first go.
I also prefer hand tools
A hand plane is better to control.
Nice sharp wood chisels
Hand saws of various sizes and cuts
And all sanding done by hand.
I restore old clocks and the cases are French polished.
It took e years of practice to get that right ill tell you.
But I have it down pay now, still takes hours to get it right and to the depth of cover I want, but it's all about the journey.
My trade is metalwork.
But I love working in wood.
The smell,the feel and the finish is always perfect.
I have a dream
A world free from the plague of Islam
A world that has never known the horrors of the cult of death.
My hope is that in time, Islam will be nothing but a bad dream
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Neferti
- Posts: 18113
- Joined: Wed Jan 12, 2011 3:26 pm
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by Neferti » Mon Jun 29, 2020 7:54 am
Dovetail joint! That's the one I was trying to remember. I was given an old cabinet/bureau many years ago, it just needed a bit of a polish and it was saved from the dump. Anyway, it has 2 doors and 4 drawers, nice "legs", etc not an "antique" but an old bit of furniture. The drawer joints are "dovetail". My sister who was into antiques offered me $5,000 for it. I still have it, keep crockery and linen and stuff in it.
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Neferti
- Posts: 18113
- Joined: Wed Jan 12, 2011 3:26 pm
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by Neferti » Mon Jun 29, 2020 8:34 am
Neferti~ wrote: ↑Mon Jun 29, 2020 7:54 am
Dovetail joint! That's the one I was trying to remember. I was given an old
cabinet/bureau many years ago, it just needed a bit of a polish and it was saved from the dump. Anyway, it has 2 doors and 4 drawers, nice "legs", etc not an "antique" but an old bit of furniture. The drawer joints are "dovetail". My sister who was into antiques offered me $5,000 for it. I still have it, keep crockery and linen and stuff in it.
It is a
sideboard! Fairly plain. Carved "legs" (or "feet"?) Several different types of wood. Nice piece of furniture and handmade, I imagine.
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sprintcyclist
- Posts: 7007
- Joined: Wed May 07, 2008 11:26 pm
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by sprintcyclist » Mon Jun 29, 2020 8:36 am
Valkie wrote: ↑Mon Jun 29, 2020 5:59 am
The dovetail joint you have there will still require some glue, or a fixed to another structural component.
Dovetail joints as also very pretty, and if done by hand, show off the carpenter's skill.
If you are serious about not using glue or other fixings
A wedged mortice and tennon joint is the answer, although I still use glue.
You can even have a blank wedged mortice and tennon joint.
Where the wedge is inserted into the tennon before insertion into the blank mortice and locks as the joint is assembled.
But with this one, you only get one chance, so it's got to be perfect first go.
I also prefer hand tools
A hand plane is better to control.
Nice sharp wood chisels
Hand saws of various sizes and cuts
And all sanding done by hand.
I restore old clocks and the cases are French polished.
It took e years of practice to get that right ill tell you.
But I have it down pay now, still takes hours to get it right and to the depth of cover I want, but it's all about the journey.
My trade is metalwork.
But
I love working in wood.
The smell,the feel and the finish is always perfect.
' ............ I love working in wood. ........'
Me too. It is a living thing.
Steel is ...... cold and hard to work. Unyielding.
Have you seen the wooden framed bikes?
Total work of art.
Right Wing is the Natural Progression.
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sprintcyclist
- Posts: 7007
- Joined: Wed May 07, 2008 11:26 pm
Post
by sprintcyclist » Mon Jun 29, 2020 8:37 am
Neferti~ wrote: ↑Mon Jun 29, 2020 7:54 am
Dovetail joint! That's the one I was trying to remember. I was given an old cabinet/bureau many years ago, it just needed a bit of a polish and it was saved from the dump. Anyway, it has 2 doors and 4 drawers, nice "legs", etc not an "antique" but an old bit of furniture. The drawer joints are "dovetail". My sister who was into antiques offered me $5,000 for it. I still have it, keep crockery and linen and stuff in it.
Noice
Right Wing is the Natural Progression.
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