Knife sharpening

[sprintcyclist]

I hear you.
I am a traditionalist in some areas.
I collect and rebuild mechanical clocks, love the damn things.

When preparing the cases, I use French polishing, a time consuming and very unforgiving exercise.
But it gives a beautiful finish which seems deeper than other finishes.

I also build wooden clocks, with wooden gears.
The only metal components are the axles.
I cut them by hand on a fretsaw, individually, some gears can take hours to cut out.
Then they have to be polished and fitted.
My last clock took 4 months to build.

Knives, while an interest to me, are predominantly tools.
So I look at the most efficient way to get that perfect edge.

I have never been good enough to get an edge anywhere near as sharp free hand, as I can achieve with y knife sharpener.

very impressive

[Valkie]

I hear you.
I am a traditionalist in some areas.
I collect and rebuild mechanical clocks, love the damn things.

When preparing the cases, I use French polishing, a time consuming and very unforgiving exercise.
But it gives a beautiful finish which seems deeper than other finishes.

I also build wooden clocks, with wooden gears.
The only metal components are the axles.
I cut them by hand on a fretsaw, individually, some gears can take hours to cut out.
Then they have to be polished and fitted.
My last clock took 4 months to build.

Knives, while an interest to me, are predominantly tools.
So I look at the most efficient way to get that perfect edge.

I have never been good enough to get an edge anywhere near as sharp free hand, as I can achieve with y knife sharpener.

very impressive

More like, carry obsessive

Anyone can do it, it's just time consuming and I love it.

[FLEKTARN]

And cutting paper to prove sharpness blunts a blade, don't do it.

You don't know what you're talking about. If you really want to test sharpness, you MUST most certainly use a thin paper like a kasov bon, don't know how it's called in English, I think cash receipt. This one:



It's very thin. And if you did use thicker paper like regular A4 printer paper, jesus christ, what knife do you have. Most modern steels won't dull that easily. Even if the steel is not so good and it's like AUS8 or 440C, if the heat treatment is properly done, there won't be any fucking problems.

BUSSE Combat use a steel similar to 440C, but their heat treatment is the biggest secret. Their knives are so hard.

[FLEKTARN]

Do you want an edge better than any factory?

https://www.edgeproinc.com/professional ... m-p56.html

US$705.00
Pro 4 Kit - Professional Model Edge Pro Sharpening System

System Includes

Professional Model Edge Pro Sharpening System
120 Grit Coarse water stone
220 Grit Medium Fine water stone
400 Grit Fine water stone
600 Grit Extra Fine water stone
1000 Grit Ultra fine water stone
1 Pack of 2000 Grit Polish Tapes (15 per pack)
1 Pack of 3000 Grit Polish Tapes (15 per pack)
1 Pack of 6000 Grit Polish Tapes (15 per pack)
3 Polish Tape Mounting Blanks
10" 1200 Grit Ceramic Hone
Micro-fiber Towel
Water Bottle
Scissor Attachment
Instructional DVD
Instructional Manual
All enclosed in a Hard Shell Carrying Case with custom foam fitted interior

For half that price I can get the best sharpening system in the world, currently. The Edge Pro is not bad, but it's nowhere NEAR the quality of the Russian TSPROF system — http://en.tsprof.com

[Bobby]

Do you want an edge better than any factory?

https://www.edgeproinc.com/professional ... m-p56.html

US$705.00
Pro 4 Kit - Professional Model Edge Pro Sharpening System

System Includes

Professional Model Edge Pro Sharpening System
120 Grit Coarse water stone
220 Grit Medium Fine water stone
400 Grit Fine water stone
600 Grit Extra Fine water stone
1000 Grit Ultra fine water stone
1 Pack of 2000 Grit Polish Tapes (15 per pack)
1 Pack of 3000 Grit Polish Tapes (15 per pack)
1 Pack of 6000 Grit Polish Tapes (15 per pack)
3 Polish Tape Mounting Blanks
10" 1200 Grit Ceramic Hone
Micro-fiber Towel
Water Bottle
Scissor Attachment
Instructional DVD
Instructional Manual
All enclosed in a Hard Shell Carrying Case with custom foam fitted interior

For half that price I can get the best sharpening system in the world, currently. The Edge Pro is not bad, but it's nowhere NEAR the quality of the Russian TSPROF system — http://en.tsprof.com

I don't know that one so I can't comment.
The Edge Pro does however require the additional purchase of a collar
which is used to measure & have the same grinding angle independent of different sharpening stone thickness.
They will actually include one with the kit if you ask them.
With a bit of practice you can get blades down to scalpel quality -
it really is that good.
It's also of course a cold process so no metal is heated up to wreck the temper of the steel.
You can also purchase an electronic angle gauge to measure the precise sharpening angle.

[FLEKTARN]

I prefer a mechanical angle gauge.

[Valkie]

And cutting paper to prove sharpness blunts a blade, don't do it.

You don't know what you're talking about. If you really want to test sharpness, you MUST most certainly use a thin paper like a kasov bon, don't know how it's called in English, I think cash receipt. This one:



It's very thin. And if you did use thicker paper like regular A4 printer paper, jesus christ, what knife do you have. Most modern steels won't dull that easily. Even if the steel is not so good and it's like AUS8 or 440C, if the heat treatment is properly done, there won't be any fucking problems.

BUSSE Combat use a steel similar to 440C, but their heat treatment is the biggest secret. Their knives are so hard.

If I want to cut paper, I'll use scissors.

As a mechanical engineer, I understand the heat treatment processes, nitriding, and other serious treatment processes.
Annealing is also somewhat critical to remove stress and prevent breakage.

You can make some steels tremendously hard, but with that comes brittleness.
So a happy medium is required.
Modern steels, include chromium which is a key ingredient for stainless steel and molybdenum is also added to reduce pitting and acid corrosion.

But these additions also affect the steels ability to hold an edge.

Damascus steel, when made correctly with the best quality high carbon steel, is a combination of high strength, high hardness and ability to resist breakage, but good Damascus also trusts, hence the need to oil the blade regularly and after use.

Personally I prefer a razor sharp knife for my fighting knives.
For day to day use and carry I use either Victoronox or Leatherman as they are both useful and stainless, therefore resistant to corrosion when used and abused in daily use.
I have a collection of both, some as old as 60 years, but I'm still looking for older ones.
I have several Damascus blades, most fairly modern, but one very old ( not been able to date it yet)
I only have 5 Leatherman knives, but the daily carry is my wingman, easy to use and comfortable in the hand.
My throwing knives don't have to be all that sharp.
But I keep a basic edge on them anyway.

I also have two knives I purchased in the US several years ago.
Tempered in pigs blood.
I spoke to the gentleman who makes these knives, the pigs blood is a mixture of pigs blood and oil.
He sells hundreds of these to soldiers.

As with all tools
Keeping them in peak condition and sharp is important.

[sprintcyclist]

All the fun has been sucked out of this thread

[Redneck]

Knife sharpening ---- Shorten !!

[Bobby]

If I want to cut paper, I'll use scissors.

As a mechanical engineer, I understand the heat treatment processes, nitriding, and other serious treatment processes.
Annealing is also somewhat critical to remove stress and prevent breakage.

You can make some steels tremendously hard, but with that comes brittleness.
So a happy medium is required.
Modern steels, include chromium which is a key ingredient for stainless steel and molybdenum is also added to reduce pitting and acid corrosion.

But these additions also affect the steels ability to hold an edge.

Damascus steel, when made correctly with the best quality high carbon steel, is a combination of high strength, high hardness and ability to resist breakage, but good Damascus also trusts, hence the need to oil the blade regularly and after use.

Personally I prefer a razor sharp knife for my fighting knives.
For day to day use and carry I use either Victoronox or Leatherman as they are both useful and stainless, therefore resistant to corrosion when used and abused in daily use.
I have a collection of both, some as old as 60 years, but I'm still looking for older ones.
I have several Damascus blades, most fairly modern, but one very old ( not been able to date it yet)
I only have 5 Leatherman knives, but the daily carry is my wingman, easy to use and comfortable in the hand.
My throwing knives don't have to be all that sharp.
But I keep a basic edge on them anyway.

I also have two knives I purchased in the US several years ago.
Tempered in pigs blood.
I spoke to the gentleman who makes these knives, the pigs blood is a mixture of pigs blood and oil.
He sells hundreds of these to soldiers.

As with all tools
Keeping them in peak condition and sharp is important.

Who knows what they put in knife steel?
It's the same with tool steel -
tungsten, cobalt, chromium , manganese, molybdenum
combined with heat treating.